The sense of hollowness of the Church of the Nativity is deeper than absent tourists.
The chants and prayers are pain-stricken and desperate.
Down in the manger by the enshrined spot where baby Jesus was said to be born, a priest solemnly swings incense into the corners.
Bethlehem’s Christian community struggles to celebrate amid ongoing war in Palestine
There is no beautifully-lit tree in the square outside for the second year in a row. Even in their homes, the Palestinian Christian community in Bethlehem is struggling to celebrate.
The empty spaces and lack of tourism are the shadow of 14 months of war in Gaza and a daily reminder of the ongoing devastation.
And around their family homes, Israeli settlements in the West Bank – illegal under international law – are inching closer to their homes.
“Normally we spend Christmas in Bethlehem and Jerusalem but this year there are no celebrations because of what is happening with the war. It is not nice to celebrate while people are dying,” says Alice Kisiya.
Alice Kisiya
Alice is from Beit Jala, Bethlehem. For five years, her family have waged legal battles with settlers over their generational home.
“Each Christmas we had demolition because each time they come and demolish. Last year, we were celebrating Christmas there and they came and demolished our small tent,” says Alice.
She and her family are waiting for a Supreme Court ruling in January on whether they can return.
“Our country is shrinking. As Palestinian Christians, we cannot really have our freedom to move freely and it’s getting worse.”
Her words resonate as we drive along the West Bank wall on the edges of Bethlehem.
A stark reminder of the political divide that is tearing through the Holy Land.
‘It seems destiny of Holy Land is to stay divided’
On the other side of the wall from the sacred site where Jesus was born is where he was crucified in Jerusalem.
We hear that the procession of the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem is soon arriving through a checkpoint inside the wall into Bethlehem to the Church of Nativity.
A crowd of eager Catholics are waiting for him by Rachel’s Tomb, a sacred site for Orthodox Jews.
School children visiting the tomb are ushered off the street by elders aware of the arriving procession.
They start to sing defiantly as older students are forcefully removed from the road by Israeli police.
There is a hushed sense of anticipation and awe from those waiting for Cardinal Pierbattista Pizzaballa to arrive from the Church of Holy Sepulchre – where Jesus was crucified – to the Church of the Nativity, where he was born in refuge.
“This is an important more than a thousand-year-old tradition,” says Tony Marcos, Dean of the Catholic Action Foundation.
As a Palestinian resident of the West Bank, Tony is not permitted to make the procession between the two holy sites.
“It seems the destiny of this Holy Land to stay divided and these are difficult times we are living in,” he adds.
“Christmas is the season of love and the season of hope. There is big pain and there is instability – a lot of sacrifices and a lot of blood,” he says.
Tony Marcos
‘We want next year to be full of light’
The anxiety seems to dissipate as Cardinal Pizzaballa arrives.
He shakes hands with a queue of people eager to get close to the leader of the Church they cannot visit.
“This Christmas, we want people not to lose hope. It is possible to break down the hatred, the division, the contempt and the lack of justice and dignity we are experiencing here,” says Cardinal Pizzaballa.
“The prayer is to raise our gaze and to look forward, not backwards. We want the next year to be full of light – lighted in the darkness.”
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Pierbattista Pizzaballa
This year, the thousand-year-old tradition is more powerful than ever.
“The meaning [of this crossing] is that it is possible. Even when there are enormous and difficult walls, it is possible to pass them.”